The Ultimate Guide To Yoho National Park

Everything you need to know about Yoho National Park in Canada – the best hiking trails, where to stay and tips from an expert!

Kicking Horse River Yoho National Park
Kicking Horse River in Yoho National Park.

“Have you heard of Banff National Park?”

“Yes, of course! I loved it/am desperate to go there”

“Well, have you heard of its neighbour, Yoho National Park?”

“Ummm….??”

The conversation pretty much always goes the same way. Eeeeverybody has heard of Banff National Park in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, but it still surprises me that not more people have heard of the park directly next door, Yoho National Park.

Many Canadians I have asked about it have never heard of it and even people that have been to Banff National Park have never heard of it!

It completely baffles me why one park is so famous while the other is virtually unknown.

Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park rivals the beauty of Banff’s Lake Louise. Just like Banff, Yoho boasts stunning mountain scenery, a picture perfect alpine village, raging rivers, loads of wildlife, and bright blue lakes.

Additionally, Yoho National Park is home to the second highest waterfall in Canada – Takakkaw Falls, a world renowned fossil site – the Burgess Shale, and the Lake O’Hara Alpine area, which a lot of people say is the most beautiful spot in the Rocky Mountains.

So why? Why aren’t people flocking to Yoho like they are to Banff?

I honestly don’t know the answer to this question. It is one of life’s great mysteries.

I mean, Banff is famous for a reason – it is jaw-droppingly beautiful, but I think that Yoho offers just as much to the visitor as Banff and you get the added bonus of not having to fight through crowds to enjoy it.

And for someone like me that doesn’t like crowds, this is a win-win.

Where Is Yoho National Park In Canada?

Located on the western slopes of the Rocky Mountains, Yoho National Park encapsulates the whole Rocky Mountain experience within its almost 319,000 acres of land.

Located entirely in the province of British Columbia, the park borders Banff National Park and the province of Alberta along the continental divide.

In the middle of the park is the small town of Field, home to a vibrant and close-knit community of 200.

This is the only settlement in Yoho National Park and although there are a couple of places to eat, a post office and a gas station, there isn’t much else.

The Yoho National Park Visitors Centre is located just off the highway as you turn off for Field.

I was lucky enough to live in Field for six weeks during late summer/early autumn 2015 and ever since leaving, I have been plotting my return.

Not that you could blame me. Yoho is a Cree expression of awe, and that says it all really.

Takakkaw Falls Yoho National Park
The famous Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park.

There are so many things to do in Yoho National Park!

Takakkaw Falls

This mighty waterfall is reason enough to visit Yoho National Park. It is the second highest waterfall in Canada dropping a whopping 384 metres to the valley floor below.

Takakkaw Falls is named for a Cree word meaning ‘the magnificent’ and it certainly is.

The 8km drive out to the Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park from the highway is pretty awe-inspiring in itself, especially when the trees turn a lovely shade of gold in the fall.

Emerald Lake

Just as beautiful as Lake Louise but just lacking the world-wide fame, Emerald Lake is not really emerald at all, but rather an electric aquamarine that has to be seen to be believed.

It is the largest of 61 lakes in Yoho National Park and is home to the high-end Emerald Lake Lodge, which is located on a small peninsula that juts out into the lake.

A lot of hikes originate from here and it is the perfect spot to paddle out in a canoe or to just sit by the water with an ice-cold beer.

Emerald Lake Yoho National Park
Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park.

Burgess Shale Fossil Beds

For all you fossil enthusiasts out there, I am guessing you have probably heard of the Burgess Shale Fossil Beds in Yoho National Park.

It is a world renowned fossil site with some of the best examples of soft body preservation of prehistoric marine organisms in the world.

To visit the fossil beds you can join a guided tour which can be booked through The Burgess Shale Geoscience Foundation.

Lake O’Hara Wilderness Area

Lake O’Hara is a pristine wilderness of glacial lakes, waterfalls, and sub-alpine forest, located within the already stunning Yoho National Park.

It can only be reached by a limited shuttle service or by walking along an 11km gravel road to restrict visitor numbers.

It has been said that Lake O’Hara and the surrounds is the most beautiful part of the Rocky Mountains and once you visit, you can definitely see why.

Spaces on the shuttles sell out almost immediately and go on sale in April each year for the coming summer. You can find out more details about reserving the shuttle on the Parks Canada website.

The luxury Lake O’Hara Lodge also operates their own bus service which you can catch if you are staying with them.

Lake O'Hara Yoho National Park
Lake O’Hara in the winter time.

Natural Bridge

A picturesque spot on the Kicking Horse River, where the strong force of the water has carved a bridge into the ancient rock, creating a waterfall underneath. It’s an easy stop off the road to Emerald Lake.

Field

Field is a quintessential alpine village that is almost too picture-perfect for words.

Located in the heart of Yoho National Park in a valley surrounded by mountains, Field is home to 200 lucky locals and is the only settlement in the park.

It started life as a railway town a little over 100 years ago and still has strong links to the railroad today, with the Canadian Pacific Railroad Bunkhouses being located here.

With loads of accommodation options, delicious eateries, access to hiking trails, a historic cemetery and even a pond to swim in during the hot summer months, Field is definitely worth a visit.

Twin Falls Tea House

The rustic Twin Falls Tea House was designated a National Historic Site in 1992, commemorating the early National Park architecture along with its role in early tourism in Yoho National Park.

The Tea House is set in the Little Yoho Valley and can only be reached by an 8.5km hike each way from the Takakkaw Falls Parking Lot.

The Tea House in its current form was built in the 1920s and has no electricity or running water. Tea and light food options are served to hikers from noon to 3pm in summer, but only if they have supplies.

You can also stay at the Tea House in one of the four accommodation rooms available.

Hiking Trails Yoho National Park
Perfect hiking trails in Yoho National Park.

Despite living in Yoho National Park for six weeks and hiking whenever I had free time, I still only managed to do less than half of the hikes on offer, but the ones I did complete were pretty awesome.

Here are some of the best Yoho National Park hiking trails:

Yoho Pass

Coming from Takakkaw Falls, the hike begins with steep switchbacks through thick forest before levelling out and passing the tranquil Yoho Lake.

The trail then descends past gushing waterfalls to an alluvial fan and then along the shores of otherworldly Emerald Lake.

Sherbrooke Lake

The hike to Sherbrooke Lake is an easy one through alpine forest, finishing at a glacial lake with a glorious shade of blue. I did this late in the season so it snowed lightly on the way up which only added to the experience.

Field Stone – Section of Mount Burgess Trail

One of the few hikes you can do from Field and great if you are staying there and don’t have a car. The trail is steep and travels through dense forest to a large stone known as ‘Field Stone’ that overlooks town.

This trail continues on to Burgess Pass and the summit of Mount Burgess.

Laughing Falls

Relatively flat and following the river the whole way, the Laughing Falls trail is a forested hike with mossy groundcover that leads to a waterfall at the confluence of the Yoho and Little Yoho rivers.

I like this one in fall for the bright red leaves and red berries that grow on low bushes along the path.

Emerald Lake loop

It may be easy but it is a stunner. With lake views the entire way around and through lush forest, the Emerald Lake loop is definitely worth doing.

Emerald Lake Hiking Yoho National Park
Autumn colours at Emerald Lake.

Iceline via Celeste Lake

Waterfalls, glaciers, spectacular views, alpine meadows, rocky terrain and thick forest – this hike has it all. The Iceline trail was absolutely my favourite hike that I did in Yoho National Park.

You can add another 3km on to this by continuing on to Little Yoho Valley instead of descending at Celeste Lake. It started snowing so I decided against this but I have heard that the alternative is wonderful.

Hoodoos

Short but steep, this trail is dry and exposed. It leads to hoodoos, which are capped pillars of glacial debris that look an awful lot like …, well, what do you think they look like?

Hoodoos Yoho National Park
Hoodoos.

Abbott Pass in Lake O’Hara (overnight hike)

This hike is definitely not for the unfit or faint of heart! I really didn’t know what I was letting myself in for but I have no regrets: it was one of the most epic adventures I have ever experienced.

This insane hike starts at the incredible Lake O’Hara and ascends past smaller alpine lakes to a historic hut on the continental divide. The last section is a very steep scramble up loose rocks and boulders.

Helmets and walking poles are highly recommended.

Natural Bridge Yoho National Park
The Natural Bridge.

Other Yoho National Park Hiking Trails

I didn’t get a chance to do any of these hikes myself but they have been recommended to me by friends. Next time for sure.

Emerald Basin

My friend Paulina lived at Emerald Lake for three years and has done this hike a few times with her dog. It is a great hike through dense forest to a natural amphitheatre.

This trail does not see a large number of hikers so it is likely you won’t see another soul.

Watch out for bears here.

Hamilton Lake

My friend Katja recommended this hike to me. It is a steep slog to get up to the lake but it is a beauty and totally worth it once you get to it.

Encircled by cliffs and a brilliant shade of blue, a lot of people don’t make the hike up here so you can enjoy the peace and quiet the solitude affords.

Twin Falls

Another hike recommended by Paulina, it travels along the river passing Laughing Falls to the even more impressive double cascade of Twin Falls.

The historic teahouse has a rustic charm and is a great spot for refreshments (if they are open) before turning back.

Lake O’Hara Hiking

I only got the chance to do the return hike to Abbot Pass but I have heard from many people about the beauty of the other trails in the area.

The hike to Abbot Pass incorporates the 6.4km return hike to Lake Oesa and I highly recommend that if you only have a day in the area. 

Lake Oesa Yoho National Park
Lake Oesa in the Lake O’Hara area.

With the closest major airport to Yoho National Park being in Calgary, 200km/125 miles drive away, the best way to get to Yoho National Park is by renting a car from the airport or downtown and driving there.

If you don’t drive then it is possible to catch the Greyhound bus from Calgary to the nearby towns of Golden and Lake Louise. From there you would need to catch a taxi or hitch-hike.

Unfortunately the bus no longer stops in the park. You can also catch an overnight bus from Vancouver to Golden or Lake Louise. 

There are accommodation options for every travel style and budget in Yoho National Park from primitive camping through to luxury Lodges.

Camping

There are four established campgrounds in the park: Monarch, Kicking Horse, Takakkaw Falls, and Hoodoo Creek. All of the campgrounds except Kicking Horse are basic with pit toilets and no other facilities.

If you want something a bit more luxurious, the Kicking Horse Campground offers flush toilets and showers. All front-country campsites operate on a first come, first served basis.

There is also numerous back-country camping available throughout the park. These must be reserved up to three months ahead of time with the Yoho Visitor Centre or the Lake Louise Visitor Centre.

You also must purchase a Wilderness Pass which can be purchased from any Parks Canada Visitor Centres.

Guesthouses

Pretty much every second house is either a Guesthouse or a Bed & Breakfast in the town of Field, smack bang in the middle of the park.

You could also base yourself nearby in the towns of Golden or in Lake Louise. Here are a couple of well-run guesthouse recommendations, both owned by friends of mine:

I volunteered at the Mount Stephen Guesthouse in summer 2015 so I can say first-hand how great the two one-bedroom suites are because I cleaned them!

They are fully self-contained, quiet and centrally located in the little village of Field.

Right next door to the Mount Stephen Guesthouse is the lovely Hummingbird Suite, a fully self-contained one bedroom suite owned by my good friend Paulina and her husband Darren.

They both also work at the Emerald Lake Lodge so they know their stuff when it comes to working in hospitality. They recently opened the Hummingbird Suite and the photos I have seen look fantastic.

Cilantro Emerald Lake Lodge Yoho National Park
Cilantro at Emerald Lake Lodge.

Lodges

For the highest level of luxury in the park, your best bet would be to stay at one of the Lodges. There are a few lodges to choose from in the park:

Hostels

There are two hostels within Yoho National Park. If you are travelling by yourself, staying at one of the hostels is probably your best bet for meeting other travelers.

Backcountry Huts

The Alpine Club of Canada operates a handful of huts in Yoho National Park in Little Yoho Valley, Daly Glacier and in the Lake O’Hara wilderness. You can only book them in person or by phone. See their website for more details.

Fireweed Hostel Field Yoho National Park
The awesome Fireweed Hostel in Field.

Getting Around

The best way to get around in Yoho National Park is by car as there is no public transport service.

If you don’t have a car and you are staying at Emerald Lake Lodge, Whiskey Jack Hostel by Takakkaw Falls, or in the town of Field, there are a few hikes that originate from these destinations.

Otherwise you will need to walk, hitch-hike or befriend someone else at your accommodation that has a car.

If you have a bike, this would also be a great way to get between destinations in the park.

Where To Eat And Drink

There aren’t a lot of options in Yoho National Park for dining so I would definitely recommend bringing your own food to cook for most meals.

In saying that, the food options that are available are pretty damn amazing so make sure you try these spots out while you are visiting the park.

Field Yoho National Park
The beautiful town of Field.

Things To Know

Have I convinced you to visit? Let me know in the comments below!

Autumn Yoho National Park
Autumn hiking in Yoho National Park.

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